Despite the simplicity, motorcycle chain requires regular maintenance and check tension.
The life of the chain on the same motorcycle may vary, depending on the conditions of use and care. Sharp acceleration, rear wheel drive and dirt decrease very noticably. I often go to the old comrade's studio after work. The atmosphere and the possibility of dealing with the "iron" are very tonic. One day at the entrance stops a new snow-white R6 and a young man asks if the service still works. It was as usual he needed to check the tension of the chain and lubricate it. In 10 minutes, the satisfied employees of the service were holding the hand of no less satisfied owner of "Yamaha". "What a wonderful client," I thought at the time, without understanding why he had not done so easily. Producers of modern goods deliberately turn us into Belarusians. We're not my car, we don't wash the laundry, we don't wear clothes. A lot of people don't cook at home.And I don't think they'll make anything edible if all the restaurants in the district are shut down. Just because you've never done it. Moreover, some people think that wasting time on such nonsense is beneath their dignity. Maybe so, but I'm sure a man must have a choice. I can't do anything because I don't want to, but not because I can't. You should know how to do it! To ride a horse, make good cooking, watch your own home, know how to drive a car and a bike, and know how to handle them. Chain transfer is one of the most loaded nodes in the motorcycle. The power of powerful motorcycles has reached several tons. And when it accelerates, and when you stop, they change direction. Often this occurs very sharply, and at this moment the chain is experiencing serious stressesIf the chain is loosely strained, the extra supply of the chain will be chosen at the time of the change of load, and then, when its free flow runs out, there will be a sharp impact that is harmful to all the elements of the transmission. By the way, the driver does not like to control such a dereler of any opening and cover of "gas" by a motorbike, especially in a sluggish cork. The second disadvantage of the failed chain is that, with a low tension, her unladen inertia tends to move straight forward, which is why it does not perfectly lie on the star of the asterisk, thus insulating them and themselves. Can you pull the chain so that it doesn't fail at all? No, because when the rear suspension is working, the distance between the leading star and the starred asterisk changes. And the strenuously stretched circuit will be subjected to enormous strains (the most powerful stretch) if you do not leave it with a small prowling that will be chosen when the suspension works(Yes, and with the bearings on the chain, I'll see it is a long shot.) The reason is that the axis of the pendulum and the axis of the lead star on most motorcycles are separated from each other, so the maximum tension is about the middle of the suspension of the suspension-when the axle secondary of the KP, the pendulum and the rear wheel is in the same plane. The way of setting the chain of the chain is set. Tuck or double the chain, increase or decrease the diameter of the asterisks, remove the anchor of the pendulum ... All these methods are used during the configuration of racing motorcycles. However, it is easiest to change the tension in the chain by moving the rear axle attachment point along with the leading asterisk. This is the solution that is used on all motorcycles. There are two basic ways to move an axis anchorpoint. The first is linear. The motorcycle pendulum has longitudinal bars on which the axis is moved. In addition, the tiatives are being established. They are of different constructions, but have a general principle: screw or nut-move the axis along the prorege, respectively, weaken or tighten the chain. We just have to figure out the direction. It is also important to understand that the wheel nut on the axis of the wheel is not worth spinning-they can only be spoiled by riverting the threads (however, after the end of the adjustment, it is not harmful to prevent them from spinning in the road). Therefore, the axis of the axle must be uncrung first. The pendulum and the villagers always have labels to help keep wheel alignment. But in any case, I recommend that you tighten the chain more or less synchronously, alternating gradually the right one, then the left thread. If you ride a motorcycle aggressively, like to lift it up on the back wheel, you can slow it down, the chain can stretch unevenly. Therefore, before verifying the tension, remove the rear wheel and scroll down to the neutral gear. If you don't change the chain as you rotate the wheel, that's good. If the chain is stretched, then it weakens, so it is stretched unevenly and the road in the ink. Well, if there is a need to "drive" another hundred miles on it, regulate the "most strained" position. The second variant of the chain tension system is eccentric. In the pendulum, a circular orifice of a sufficiently large diameter is located within which the tulk is rotated with an eccentrically meshed hole under the wheel axis. The centering of the center-right moves the axis of the wheel, allowing you to change the tension in the chain. This is most common in pendulum (one-sided) pendulum, but also in conventional pendulum. These systems require a little bit of snort. It is usually required to have a large diameter of six degrees. On older motorcycles, it happens that the eccentric pendulum is attached to the pendulum. It is important not to spoil them with excessive force, but to shirk the kerosene and try to move them by using not too coarse tools. One of the most frequently asked questions is the position of the motorcycle when the chain is measured. To stand on the ground under its own weight, with a rear wheel (at the central stand) or under a load (with a seated driver and a passenger)? And what should that provo be? The recommendation of the overwhelming majority of manufacturers is to evaluate when an empty motorcycle is on two wheels (on the side stand) and the rear shock absorber is only loaded with its weight. Proc for on-road motorcycles is usually within 30 to 45 mm and for non-road motorcycles with an increased suspension of the suspension can be as high as 55 mm. Once the adjustment is complete, you need to verify that the adjustment is complete. If the wheel is standing straight, the marks on the right and on the left show the same, and the chain has the desired vibe, so everything is done correctly. All that's left is to lubricate the chain. It's a good one. If there is no central stand, it is easiest to test the back wheel by tilting the motorcycle to the side stand, start the motor, and turn on the gear. When the wheel starts to rotate, to guide the jet oil from the container into the inner part of the lower branch of the chain. The main thing is to lubricate the inner rollers and the sappers. The brush on the connecting plates only collects dirt and, in general, does not need to work. The main thing is not to send the jet to the container by the chain-to the rim or to the tyre. The frozen lubrication is very badly removed from the riods, but why don't you need to smear the tires? There were also automatic lubrication systems that made it possible to smear the chain on the course, but on modern motorcycles they did not come in, ceding to a relatively expensive but also long lasting lubricant. It is, of course, the type of motorcycle and, above all, the conditions for its operation. For example, the lubrication for racing motorcycles would be bad for off-road. By the way, it is the mud and the sandy bathrooms that are the hardest to chains. Therefore, good lubrication should not only be easy to penetrate into all the cracks, but, by drying, forming a solid and not too much dust of film. In the case of force majeure, of course, any oil is better than dry friction, but remember that depending on the conditions of operation and the care of the chain, its service life on comparable capacity of motorcycles may differ from 5,000 to 5,000. 30 to 40 thousand kilometers. Another pressing issue is to clean or not clean the chain before the grease and to clean it up. Of course, removing the chain and washing it in the bath can only afford those who have lock chains. I don't think it's worth taking pictures of the pendulum, and there's also an aerosol purifier that makes it easier to get to the limit: it's enough to wash the chain and dry it off. But for off-road motorcycles, this is often not enough. It is good to clean the chain with only a brush with a brush through which the chain is passed through the nozzle with a salt or a special liquid for washing. The jaweed are usually triggered in a circle, through a small filter. However, few of them have such a device even in the workshop, not to mention the journey. Therefore, many are limited only to the lubrication of the lubrication of the chain-and in the case of regular maintenance, the transmission lives for a long time. The main criterion of good care-each link in the chain should move freely, without eating (it is easy to check, loosing the chain slightly). And all the operations with the chain are better to do right after the return: lubrication is easier to soak up the warm chain, and from the rust somehow protects. Well, that's it. To be honest, read this article for sure is longer than to regulate and lubricate the circuit of the motorcycle, so think it yourself, whether it makes sense to ride with such a business or take care of itself in envy of those who do not know how to do anything. The tension of the chain is determined by the clamp on the difference between the reading on the ruler scale (roulette). In this case (centre of the chain) 58-17 = 41 mm. The recommended tensioning parameters are usually specified on a pendulum label. A screw is required by at least two keys-one weaken the axle nut (it may have to hold the axis of the other key) and the second to regulate its position. Always check to see if the screws are tight. Otherwise, they can spin around. The snail-resident is simpler and more convenient: only one key is needed, positioning accuracy is provided by fixed excavation on the "snail" and by the points in front of each digit. In addition, the desired chain tension is automatically secured by turning the "snail" away from the hand without the key. One division roughly corresponds to one link in the chain. That is, in the case shown in the photo, you can take a 2 or 4 chain longer. Select the chain, note the size of the links (a), their number (b), and the type of compaction (c). More in Moto #3-2010. How do I check the wheel-siphon? Look at the motorcycle front and, turn the wheel, get the front wheel in the rear (if you look along the front wheels, you can see the thickness of the rear tread depth). When the front wheel is exposed, look again, but below the sharp edges, to see both sides of the rear. The left and right sides of the angle (it is clearly visible on the front wheel) shall be roughly the same. The photo shows that the rear wheel is looking to the left (on the turn of the motor cycle). The package contains the assembly order with the lock, check values of the provisions, and care recommendations. When installing a new chain, it is important that the bottom branch does not lose the chain. With tension, the chain is always removed from the hook, so if there is a risk that the chain will hurt for it, choose a longer chain when buying. In any case, the chain is longer: it is much easier to cut off links from it than to increase them. To make sure that the trap does not touch the chain, break it up and collect only the box with the skeleton-so you'll see all the gaps. For cleaning and lubrication of the chain, it is convenient to put the motorcycle on the central stand (or post it on the side by side support), start the motor and turn on the first gear. The combination is sprayed on the inner surface of the lower branch of the chain, ensuring that they do not fall on the rim and tyre. The worn chain is the verdict of the stars. To avoid confusing the side of the installation, remember: wornished by "tilted" towards rotation, not vice versa.