The grip of the modern motorcycle is reliable and accurate site. But it requires skillful handling and driving and maintenance.
Don't be surprised by experienced motorcyclists and the professionals of the mooremont, that I write about known truths. The main thing is to keep the memory of the noblers, but the main thing is to keep the errors from understanding the motorcycle processes starting from wrong, and as a consequence, from expensive errors. The differences in the design of the friction between a pair of disks sometimes cause confusion in the minds of those who only discover the principles of the work of this node. The purpose of our material is to keep your heads from this strange state, and to keep the clutch from its consequences. The disenfranchised clutch gives the driver the opportunity to accurately report the engine torque when he passes it to the gearbox and then on to the wheel. On motorbikes, this is important at the moment of start, at the turn on the narrow road and especially in traffic in traffic jams. It is an endo-chaining, and at all, invaluable in the passage of difficult obstacles. The wear of the clutch may be indicated by a noise in the crankcase, a tight lever or vibration. But none of these symptoms are yet separate. For example, noise may be the norm for a given motorcycle model, and typically it is issued by rotating without load gears. Vibrations at the start occur more often on completely new motorcycles, when the clutches of the clutch are not even wiped. The more serious symptom is the clutch of the clutch: the lever is released and the rigid coupling of the engine with the wheels is not present. The motorcycle may go, but it is worth to add gas, as engine turns start growing faster than the speed of motion, as if you have a hydraulic mechanical "machine" instead of a mechanical box. Therefore, at the first sign of traction, there is a need to stopIf the cable is quoted, check the free flow and ease of the cable. When the lever is lowered, the cable will be drawn up? A steep gull for the cable to weaken. It is better to check the free travel of the lever at the drive shaft (1-2 mm at the end of the lever). The cable itself cannot be regulated, there must be some reason. If it has caught on something, such as in the forest, the depth of the shell can pop out of the hole by creating a tension. Therefore, pay attention to how the cable is installed. Proper line adjustment is the bond of the long life of the clutch. She takes a second, she doesn't need a tool, she takes her for a long time. If after adjustment the signs of scuffle will disappear, consider that you are lucky: you can ride a motorcycle. But it's rare. If the clutch is coupled with the correct routeing, it is time to change itDo not rush, preferably on low gear, to the place of repair, trying to minimize the thrashing. Many modern bikes have the hydraulic transmission of the clutch. It does not require any adjustments and, in principle, cannot be the cause of the clutch of the clutch. Therefore, the thrashing on such motorcycles is almost always a sign of severe wear on the node. There is another picture-the clutch "leads": the lever is to be removed to the end and the motorcycle is trying to drive forward. The transfers are toil and the "neutral" is almost impossible to catch. It's fine in the cold weather; when the frozen oil will warm, everything will come to normal. But if the bike has spent the winter in hiberai, the disks can "skulk" together. In order to separate them, it is sometimes necessary to pass a few kilometres (preferably with a "gas" and a brake by pressing the left lever to the point)In especially difficult cases, the disks are captured in such a way that even it is impossible to touch. Then the following scheme works: two others piled your motorcycle back and forth, and you were on the master's rights, loading the back wheel and clutting the clutch. On the third, the fourth disk drive is usually wrapped. Otherwise, the knot will have to be dealt with. If the clutch is "lead" during operation, re-turn to the cable's adjustment. Perhaps his free move is a big one. Reduce it, but remember that the small play at the end of the lever shall remain. Hydropower can also become a problem, because the air in the system or the supercharged cuff won't let the clutch out. But if it's okay with the tether and the hydraulics, the malfunction will have to be found inside. On domestic motorcycles, it was noted that the unevenly adjusted clutch of the clutch were rehatting a package of discs and they continued to rub on the same side without giving a complete cordon to the wheel. It is not difficult to define this: see how the disks in the recycle bin are used. If unevenly, rotate one or more screws to the springs. In modern systems, this is impossible in principle (the screws are tight), and only very rarely is the distortion of the disks themselves. Long drive with very coking clutch may kill the engine of your motor cycle: the particles of burnt friction discs will fall in the oil, and with it the precision joints of the liners, shatunov, pistons. You can see the big chunks of fries in the background of the cork. They can kill the channels of the lubrication system very quickly. Then the whole engine's got to be handled. Opening the powertrain crankcase for diagnosis and repair (replacement) of the clutch should be represented as you are going. First of all, most likely (especially on the old motorcycle) is the new crankcase cover (the old one is relaxed and torn). Secondly, on some motorcycles access to the body will have to be removed from the exhaust pipe (preventing the lid from being removed), which is not always easy and can lead to the need to look for the laying of pipes, studs, nuts, etc. The problem with the unexpected spare parts relates to the creaking of the lid-on some motorcycles the screws are disposable. Third, if the clutch is engaged, the washing of the engine and the replacement of the oil with the filter is a mandatory procedure. Finally, we will need a good instrument and a complete clutch, preferably full (meatballs, steel disks and springs). I notice that the field repairs assume a lot less conditionality. For example, the opening of the cover can be cut from any level material of suitable thickness-from cardboard to linoleum, and temporary suspension of the disks will help the installation of the washer to the springs. That doesn't stop you? Then we will assume that the preparation is done: the clutch is removed, the pad is torn, the disposable screws are neatly placed, waiting for reuse. It's okay, we'll worry about that after we repair the clutch. Perhaps another article. We unwind the screws (often with the internal hexagon), securing the clutch springs and the hymn disc, but the discs themselves are not in a hurry. You must mark the disk drive locations in the shopping cart. Multiplexed systems are heated by noise at the moment of full clutch, and when the KR is "neutral". Noise creates venom of discs, slightly daring to the edges of the rubber bands in the clutch of the clutch. It would be possible to reduce the noise by reducing the gap between the valves and the basket, but then increasing the risk of overheating the disks. Therefore, usually one friction disc, more often uppermost, is placed in special paws, slightly smaller in width. This disc is practically not moved along the pases, and therefore does not curate, but while being attached to the rest of the disks, they control the bolts within the basket. Sometimes, for the same purpose, one wreath is already made on all drives, and a smaller paz is on the basket. Some fractions are sometimes smaller than the width of the working surface or other differences. You do not have to enumerate all, and that is why the first time you break the new node, note the nuances. With the discs out, it's easy to tell what happened to them. Frictions (those with paper, plastic or cork sectors along the whole circle) are usually brownish or greenish colors. The blackout and the smell of the gari for them. The same mortal as for intermediate metal discs of deformation or coloring in the color of a pitiless. It's quite difficult to wear chaining, properly driving the bike. As a rule, this is about 40,000 people. km But it happens, too, that the garnated clutch doesn't smell. The overall thickness of the disc package decreases as the friction between them is reduced. At the high mileage of the motorcycle, the basket is also worn. On the edges of its elongations, a development appears to make it difficult for the disks to move and the smooth clutch of the clutch. You can gently align the file with a file, although this is a last resort, and it is better to change the basket to a new one. (The highest gear is sufficient to turn the nut of the attachment into the KP, then press the foot on the brake pedal and hold the key. In a certain skill, neither the fixture nor the assistant is needed. ) Before installing new disks, be sure to feed them with motor oil and carefully monitor the correct sequence of their installation in the shopping cart. It is important not to exceed the torque of the screws that secure the clutch springs. It's easy to rip off a bit of carving in a dune drum. The spring is another important element of the site. For motorbikes, the springs are not applied too tight to keep the hand in the grip of the clutch of the clutch. But if you're using a motorcycle for racing, it's better to tought it up. After all, the clutch will only work once-at the start. By the way, the racing bundles of clutch survive only two quick start-up. I don't know what to say about the usual, the road. Remember that if you decide to take part in a street racking. All of the above refers to the most common type of adhesion on motorcycles-multi-disk clutch in the oil bath. But there are others. Ducati, for example, is famous for "dry" clutch. Very noisy, however, it creates less resistance to rotation. The BMW has used its "opposites" for a convenient, in-build, dry, dry, dry-clutch. Dry clutch does not like long punctauds, and from this point of view is inferior to the wet grip. But he has a serious plus-he doesn't care what oil is in the engine. This is why it is not recommended for motorcycles with normal (wet) clutch of car oils with anti-friction additives, as well as any friction modifiers and other motor vehicles. The thrashing won't make you wait. The last of the board of new motorcyclists, don't take the time to practice the clutch of the clutch. It is a vital organ of governance. You need to be perfectly master of a smooth start skill and be able to quickly start, to be able to deploy on a limited space and to switch gear "down" with emergency braking. Without this, it is impossible to manage the bike qualitatively and to get the real pleasure from the train. We're filming everything that's in the way of removing the cap of the clutch. We're unrolling the downpour ... and the cork, and, of course, prepare the oil tank. Disconnect the brake cylinder with a brake application. Attach the fastening of the coupling cable ... to the cable itself. Sometimes it's convenient to put the lever on the wheel, put some emphasis on the lever. It allows the end of the shell to be removed from the dredging, and then it is easy to remove the cable itself. Scrolls the cover off the cover to the location (they can be of varying lengths). We remove the lid and examine it carefully (usually change it). Flip the floppy disk drive of the basket. Be careful not to lose the springs. Check if they are equal. We take off the hymn drive, remember the features and location of the disks in the basket (the most distant disk is different from the other colors). We assess the wear. Disks are better than changing the kit. Individual Friction Units (in photo) and steel (they live longer) and spring (saving on them lead to fast failure of the new set of discs) are found in the sale. Before the assembly, it is useful to wash the node with a universal purifier and wipe the frown. And here's the "wet" Friction discs before the plant needs to be soaked with oil. The screw plate (and the attachment of the cover) before installing the screw blue (weak fixation) screws. Lock the screws equally at the prescribed torque. We need to get the clutch out of the clutch. The main-the lid must be easy to stand, not to be besieged by force-it is so easy to break the clutch of the clutch of the clutch. It is no problem that the lever is not placed in the right position, it is not difficult to put on the slits. The shaft with a pair of jagged jagged teeth can be used temporarily, simply by turning it 180 °.